I’ve just finished ‘A Short History of Tractors in Ukrainian’, a hilarious, witty and moving novel with something for everyone – the eastern Europeans could recognize themselves in the characters, while the Westerners – get a grasp of the expression ‘the deep Slavic soul’.
‘A Short History of Tractors in Ukrainian’ is, however, not tragic in the way most books on Eastern Europe tend to be. The bitterly painful reflections on Stalinism, communism, dissident camps and broken dreams are tangled in a comic feast, full of eccentric rather than depressed types.
Writer Marina Lewycka, Ukrainian descent, was born in a refugee camp in Germany, at the end of World War II, and raised in England. Apparently both, her ‘parallel’ lives between Eastern and Western Europe and my eastern European background helped for the strong impact which the book had on me.
Some parts of it I reread. Some parts reminded me of my childhood, others – of stories my grandparents have told me from the time they’d been young. Some parts saddened me, others – made me burst into laughter. Overall, it was painfully close and nostalgic at the same time.
Most touching were a few paragraphs on how eastern Europeans value food and food storage. They brought memories of a manufacture, taking place in our house every summer, as well as in every house in our neighborhood, and in every neighborhood in the country, and probably in the neighboring countries too.
*Because the eastern Europeans feel strongly about their food and its preservation.*
Westerners regard food as a means for physical sustenance and as something that helps them stay healthy and enjoy life. Preserving is hardly known, and making and baking are mostly associated with the Saturday and Sunday markets for home-grown and home-made food. Food in Eastern Europe is, however, another story. A lot different! Accumulating and storing (almost in commercial quantities) are needed for the family’s physical survival. A matter of life and death!
Let me give you an example with this emblematic household appliance ‘the freezer’. Western Europeans buy their freezers based on functionality and practicality reasons, eastern Europeans – on volume capacity. Bigger freezer = less for storing in jars, paper, plastic bags, crates, etc. (the imagination should play here). Also, the amount of food stored never seems to be enough. As a popular saying in Eastern Europe goes: ‘food will only be enough, if it remains’, meaning that the preservation should exceed the needs.
Buying second-hand jars, which to stuff with more winter suppliers, is always an option. Also, be aware that producing jar lids is probably one of the most stable businesses in Eastern Europe. (The economic slowdown and the recession help it too).
An excerpt:
My mother had a pantry under the stairs stocked from floor to ceiling with tins of fish, meat, tomatoes, fruit, vegetables and puddings, packets of sugar (granulated, caster, icing and Demerara), flour (plain, self-raising and wholemeal), rice (pudding and long-grain), pasta (macaroni, twirls and vermicelli), lentils, buckwheat, split peas, oatmeal, bottles of oil (vegetable, sunflower and olive), pickles (tomato, cucumber, beetroot), boxes of cereals (mainly Shredded Wheat), packets of biscuits (mainly chocolate digestives) and slabs of chocolate. On the floor, in bottles and demi-johns, were gallons of a thick, mauve liquor made from plums, brown sugar and cloves, a glass of which was guaranteed to render even the most hardened alcoholic (and there were plenty of those in the Ukrainian community) comatose for up to three hours.
Upstairs under the beds in sliding boxes were kept preserves (mainly plum) and jars of home-made jam (plum, strawberry, raspberry, blackcurrant and quince in all combinations). In the potting-sheds and garage, cardboard fruit-boxes were stacked with the latest crop of apples, Bramleys, Beauty of Bath and Grieves, all separately wrapped in newspaper, exuding their fruity perfume. By next spring, their skins would be waxy, and the fruit inside shrivelled, but they were still good for Apfelstrudel and Blini. (The windfalls and damaged fruit had been picked out, cut up, and stewed as they fell.) Nets of carrots and potatoes, still preserved in their coat of clayey soil, bundles of onions and garlic, hung in the cool dark of the outhouse.
When my parents bought a freezer, in 1979, the peas, beans, asparagus and soft fruits soon piled up in plastic ice-cream tubs, each one labelled, dated and rotated. Even dill and parsley were rolled in little plastic bundles and stored away for use, so that there was no longer any season of the year when there was scarcity.
When I teased her about these supplies, enough to feed an army, she would wag her finger at me and say, “It’s in case your Tony Benn ever comes to power.”
My mother had known ideology, and she had known hunger. When she was twenty-one, Stalin had discovered he could use famine as a political weapon against the Ukrainian kulaks. She knew-and this knowledge never left her throughout her fifty years of life in England, and then seeped from her into the hearts of her children-she knew for certain that behind the piled-high shelves and abundantly stocked counters of Tesco and the Co-op, hunger still prowls with his skeletal frame and gaping eyes, waiting to grab you the moment you are off your guard. Waiting to grab you and shove you on a train, or on to a cart, or into that crowd of running fleeing people, and send you off on another journey where the destination is always death.
The only way to outwit hunger is to save and accumulate, so that there is always something tucked away, a little something to buy him off with.
There is a popular belief in Eastern Europe that throwing bread (even being moldy) is a sin. According to a proverb: ‘No one is bigger than bread’. Meanwhile the Westerners say: ‘The bread of life’, meaning that what is needed for a full life is spiritual food.
**
Although I tend not to blame the past for all strange eastern Europeans’ affinities, when it comes to food, I’m willing to do so. Or at least partly.
Not enough time has passed yet for Eastern Europeans to forget hunger, food stores with only basic products on the shelves, the empty shops in the 90s and the two-mile queues for bread in the mornings.
As much as ‘A Short History of Tractors in Ukrainian’ is concerned, it is not a clash between Eastern and Western Europe. I understood it as a comical, but truthful picture of the eastern Europeans and their mentality. A mentality, which is sometimes a result of circumstances, not choices.
**
P.S. This blogpost was originally posted here.